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WINE & CHEESE TOGETHER AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL

March 18th, 2024 by Joseph Temple

The idea of pairing wine and cheese has a very long history that has worked really successfully. Scientists attribute it to the fats in cheese being an excellent balance for the acidity in the wine. Some consumers feel the cheese helps the tannins in a red wine seem less astringent and less bitter. Others rely less on that premise and a more recent trend is serving a white white with most cheeses. Specific matching can get over complicated but everyone agrees that a winning wonderful combination is enjoying the wine & cheese from the same region together.

Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Vancouver holds an annual “Wine and Cheese Extravaganza” this time held on March 13, 2024 featuring 16 cheeses in 4 flights of 4 each organized by Allison Spurrell, Proprietor of the outstanding shop “Les Amis du Fromage”. Impressive cheese service at the highest level all with a perfect point of ripeness at ideal temperatures. Well done!

There were also 6 Burgundy wines served in 2 flights of 3 whites followed by 3 reds. More details:

JACQUESSON CUVEE 735 BRUT CHAMPAGNE (47% Chard, 33 Pinot Noir, & 20 Pinot Meunier, mainly difficult 2007 vintage 72% + 28 Reserves, only 3.5 g/l dosage, disgorged February 2012) Mature rich round with aged brioche notes from 12 years bottle age.

GASTON CHIQUET BLANC DE BLANCS D’AY GRAND CRU Grower Champagne 100% Chardonnay from the village of Ay disgorged March 2016 was fresher livelier robust with a full creamy delightful texture. The aperitif was enjoyed while listening to a moving live Jane Coop noted guest pianist delivering Beethoven – Sonata in D Major, Op.28 -1st movement: Allegro. A whole different Blog is needed for the enhanced aesthetics of wine with music!

VINCENT GIRARDIN All three whites – winegrowers since 17th century but VG recent only since 1980 expanded from 2 hectares to 20 (40 plots) with House 1992 but sold 2011 with son Pierre returning in 2017.

2000 MEURSAULT 1ER CRU LES CHARMES 13 abv

2000 MEURSAULT 1ER CRU LE PORUZOT-DESSUS 13 abv

2001 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LE CAILLERET 13.7 abv

Like the Charmes style combining finer consistent Genevrieres with mineral balanced Perrieres in a rounder combo with firmer acid & weight. Tried this in 2011 when it showed more oaky notes but now is well integrated. Poruzot from the higher “dessus” east facing slope is a bigger fuller riper more mature wine. 2000 is a success for Girardin with yields less than 1999 in a vintage that favoured elegant pure whites over lighter reds. 2021 less consistent with cool rainy September weather resulting in some unclean grapes requiring sorting out but no problem here. Best vineyard with chalky stony soils in Cailleret (used to be a Monopole of Jean Chartron & son Jean-Michel) vineyard next to Montrachet comes through with intense elegant structured balance with more complexity – white fav of the night!

First Flight:

ETORKI Sheep-Pyrenees
CREMIER CHAUMES Cow-Jurancon
BESACE DE BERGER Goat-Perigord
VIEUX PANE Cow-Normandie

Varied from neutral Etorki, creamy Chaumes, different BdB with goat milk but not strong, VP an old fav distinctive crust excellent flavour

Second Flight:

TOMME DE SAVOIE – AOP Cow Raw Milk-Savoie
CAMEMBERT MEDALLION ISIGNY Cow Raw Milk-Normandie
COMTE 24 MONTH CHARLES ARNAUD – AOP Cow Raw Milk-Jura
MAROILLES – AOP Cow-Nord

Tomme surprisingly stylish delight, Camembert only one not in perfect shape as slightly over-ripe, Aged Comte is always outstanding with added dimensions paired with these white Burgundies, Maroilles usually comes in three sizes depending on the age with biggest for 4 weeks down to smallest at 2 weeks. This has deep soft creamy excellent flavours. Most members preferred with cheese the whites over the reds.

2000 NUITS ST. GEORGES 1ER CRU LES BOUDOTS N. POTEL
2000 NUITS ST. GEORGES 1ER CRU AUX CRAS NICOLAS POTEL
2007 VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES CAILLERETS DOM. LOUIS BOILLOT

First two both 2000 from Nicolas Potel (son of Gerard Potel of famous Domaine Pousse d’Or in Volnay died in 1997 and Estate was sold off) started in 1997 a new negociant business sold in 2004 to Laboure-Roi. Now developed the Bellene name. Potel picked later than most in 2000 so less diluted and more mature skins for colour using 20-30% new oak. Les Boudots 6.3 ha is on a steep slope at the north end of NSG next to Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts showing full bodied plushness with lifted floral notes. Aux Cras 3 ha is just south of Boudots and next to Aux Murgers usually with a darker look but here a paler less intense wine. 2007 Volnay a top vineyard southern end Les Caillerets is still young and tannic with way darker big deep fruit somewhat atypical for the AC.

Third Flight:

DELICE DE POMMARD Cow-Bourgogne
MORBIER FERMIER – AOP Cow Raw Milk-Jura
EPOISSES – AOP Cow-Bourgogne
OSSAU IRATY FERMIER – AOP Sheep Raw Milk-Pyrenees

DdP dark rind creamy, unique ash middle Morbier, very runny sweet delicious perfection Epoisses with Burgundy, OIF shows a different raw milk sheep styling

Fourth Flight:

CANTAL FERMIER – AOP Cow Raw Milk-Auvergne
DELICE DE BOURGOGNE -Cow-Bourgogne
TOMME DES CROQUANTS (WALNUTS) -Cow-Bordeaux
BLEU DES CAUSSES -AOP Cow Raw Milk-Aveyron

Classic Cantal a great cheese for wine white or red, runny tasty superb DdB, Bordeaux cheese with Burgundy OK, Blue cheese tends to dominate – except with Vintage Port – but lovely here with bigger reds.


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March 18th, 2024 by Joseph Temple
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