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By Joseph Temple

With an economy based largely on tourism, it’s no surprise that Florida has a strong culinary history.  As people from around the world began flocking to the Sunshine State after completion of the Florida East Coast Railway, it was only natural that the number of restaurants would grow exponentially.  From the panhandle to the keys, numerous eateries have left an impact not only on the palates of Floridians, but on the country at large.

Below you can read about five of these iconic establishments.  For those looking to learn more about the restaurants and unique dishes of Miami, you can read IW&FS members Vicki and Joe Garrigo’s excellent article titled Cuisine of the Sun. Special thanks to FloridaMemory.com for providing most of the photos for this piece.

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Opening its doors for the first time in 1938, the Silver Slipper became famous for both its juicy steaks and a first class clientele that included JFK, Ronald Reagan, and numerous movie stars visiting Florida’s capital city.  Of course, with its unique floor plan consisting of several alcoves that could be curtained off, one can only imagine how many backroom deals were brokered by state legislators inside this restaurant.  “There was a saying … some of the significant bills of a legislative session were first passed, or defeated, in one of the curtained rooms at the Slipper.”

The private alcoves inside the Silver Slipper, circa 1961 and 2009. (click to enlarge both)

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Known for its legendary red snapper and a neon sign in the shape of this most iconic dish, Biser’s became a mainstay for Jacksonville diners until its demise in 1968.   With several locations throughout its existence, the most profitable period came during its time at 211 Forsyth Street where the owner Howard Biser served “sea foods cooked by old Southern recipes, which preserve the tang of the sea and satisfy the appetite.” This, in addition to pouring “the best cup of coffee in the state of Florida,” turned Biser’s into a River City landmark.

(Left) Biser’s Restaurant, circa 1920s. (Right) Interior of Biser’s, circa 1940s.

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Beginning in 1956, this Polynesian tiki-themed restaurant featured  “a troupe of flame-throwing, hip-gyrating, ukulele-playing performers [that] wow the well-fed, rum-soaked dinner crowd.”  But its greatest publicist was legendary late-night talk show host Johnny Carson who promoted the restaurant on the air many times, especially the grass-skirt wearing “Mystery Girl” who delivered a mystery drink to the many guests of the Mai-Kai.

Polynesian dancers at the Mai-Kai, circa late 1960s.

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Since 1905, this Spanish restaurant has been the gem of Ybor City, Tampa’s historic cigar rolling neighborhood.  Designed to resemble an Andalusian courtyard, its mosaic tiled fountain and a three-hundred seat showroom has featured various Latin talent to central Floridians for decades, becoming both a culinary and cultural hotspot.  Whether its Chicken Alicante, Spanish Omelets, gazpacho, or its signature dish, Arroz con Pollo Valenciana, there’s something for everybody at this landmark establishment.

(Left) Spanish performers at Columbia Restaurant, 1968. (Right) Courtyard.

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If you were ever driving along the South Orange Blossom Trail in 1950 with $3.65 in your pocket, then all the lobster you could eat was waiting for you at Gary’s Duck Inn – the inspiration for the multi-billion dollar Red Lobster chain of seafood restaurants.  Before interstate highways, this Orlando institution was a favorite for locals and tourists who wanted to enjoy a broiled mullet dinner complete with biscuits, coleslaw and hush puppies.

With branches in Jacksonville, Miami, Orlando, Naples & Palm Beach, the International Wine & Food Society is strong across the entire state of Florida. Perhaps these locals can chime in on their favorite restaurants in the Sunshine State?

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By CocktailSteward (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: I have been reading your thought provoking weekly blogs and notice you drink Chablis so am wondering what is your favorite vineyard there?

Answer: Difficult question but I like it. Producers and price are also very important factors to consider.  At Premier Cru level I admire the two vineyards that directly adjoin the Grand Crus:

Montee De Tonnerre continuing the line East from Blanchots with shallow calcareous soil over kimmeridgean sub facing S/SE

Vaulorent (within Fourchaume the largest 1er) at the other end adjoining Preuses with marl facing mainly W/SE

Enjoy all 7 Grand Cru with their distinct characteristics from the floral delicacy of Vaudesir to the body & structure of Valmur  but if forced to pick one I choose:

Les Clos (the largest Grand Cru) faces south on a mix of soils including stones & paler clay (not much marl) but special   limestone providing acidity, power and amazing ageing ability!

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By Joseph Temple

One book that should be on every wine aficionado’s reading list is George Taber’s A Toast to Bargain Wines.  Chronicling the numerous trends and developments throughout the history of wine, his chapter discussing the 1980s and early 1990s is a truly fascinating read.  Known by many as the ‘neo-prohibition’ period in America, the lobbying group Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD) was at the apex in terms of political power, having wine (along with other alcoholic drinks) successfully lumped in the same category as marijuana and other “gateway drugs” plaguing society.  With sales softening and multinational corporations like Nestle and Coca-Cola selling off their investments in the vineyards of California, the industry was clearly on the ropes.

But on November 17, 1991, United States vintners got a gigantic boost from an unlikely source.  For years, representatives from the wine lobby had been trying to educate both politicians and the general public about the supposed health benefits of drinking wine in moderation.  All of these efforts however paled in comparison to the free publicity they received from America’s number one television program, with an estimated audience of over twenty million viewers who tuned in that night.

Hosted by Morley Safer, a 60 Minutes segment titled ‘French Paradox’ attempted to solve the mystery regarding French and American diets – and the odd results these contrasting diets had on the health of each nation.  The former, which consumed such rich delicacies as foie gras, duck, black pudding, and forty pounds of cheese annually per person, remarkably resulted in less cases of heart disease than the latter.  And yet, despite the fact that Americans exercised more regularly than their French counterparts, how could the average Parisian be in better health than the average New Yorker?

The answer to this paradox: red wine.

The segment boasted that by drinking at least one glass a day, the risk of heart attacks and blood clots would be greatly reduced.  At least, that was the conclusion viewers were left with on that particular Sunday night.  And on Monday morning, a tidal wave of consumer interest in red wine was rippling through the United States.

Discussing the segment’s impact, Taber writes, “People in the California wine business still tell of how Americans went rushing out to buy bottles of red wine that Sunday night.  The traditional toast  “To your health” suddenly had a new meaning.  Red wine sales soared.”  Despite being in a short, but sharp recession that year, bottles flew off the shelves as baby boomers were entering their prime earning potential.  The result: the number of California wineries shot up from 807 in 1990 to 1,950 a decade later as “eating” now became “dining” and ordering “a glass of white wine” at a restaurant was replaced by ordering “a glass of chardonnay.”

Almost twenty-three years after the show first aired, the wine industry is still sending thank you cards to CBS!

You can watch a four minute clip from the segment by clicking here.

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Question: What’s all the recent controversy about using oak during wine production?

Answer: Don’t know if you can really call it a controversy. Certainly there is a lot of concern out there because some producers at the lower price range are strongly seasoning their wines with oak chips. However there definitely seems to be a growing trend to let many fresh fragrant wines show their best natural fruit. This element becomes more difficult to discern if you mask the aromas and flavours by putting the wine into oak – particularly new oak. Remember also that new oak is expensive and wineries can lower their production costs by using only stainless steel, concrete and the like. Chardonnay is one variety that definitely is seeing less new oak recently which allows the released wine to have vibrancy (like Chablis) and show more individual terroir of each grower’s specific site including their distinct soils, climate, elevation … There will always be some grand wines that benefit from oak – even 100% new oak – like Chateau d’Yquem in Sauternes and First Growth Bordeaux.

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BMK Wikimedia [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: Sid with all the different wine closures out there I wondered if you have a distinct preference?

Answer: You are right. What a change in wine closures on the market now. For aged wines I have been a long-time cork supporter but like everyone else frustrated by the TCA cork taint problems. Easy to use screw caps are becoming increasingly popular and certainly work well to preserve fresh fruity aromatic wines. Some reductive issues still remain. Not that keen for synthetic stoppers. Like the innovative glass stoppers and being able to recap but they need individual attention to fit the specific bottle necks. The hottest new alternative especially for more expensive wines is high quality Diam processed cork held together with a polyurethane-like glue. Recommend an excellent article on “Debating Diam” this week in Decanter by Andrew Jefford which can be  found here. Impressed to note that “three billion corks since 2005 and haven’t had a single case of TCA coming from the cork itself” and “polyurethane binder…completely neutral from a sensorial point of view…glueyness had to be imaginary”. Like what is happening so far with Diam!

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