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Ask Sid: Cloying?

March 8th, 2017 by Joseph Temple
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What is cloying wine tasting
By Craig Hatfield [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: During a recent wine tasting one of our group commented that a Vidal Icewine was quite “cloying”. What does that word actually mean?

Answer: Generally it means that the wine is excessively sweet. How high residual sugar will show on the palate in sweet wines is influenced so much by the level of acidity that is present. Where the acidity is lower the wines will taste much sweeter and where it is higher the same residual sugar can seem less sweet. A firm backbone of acidity will give sweet wine more lift, vibrancy and structure so that it is balanced and does not appear to be cloying.


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Bridge Over Fine Wine

March 4th, 2017 by Joseph Temple

wine storage underneath the Brooklyn Bridge NYC

By Joseph Temple

When a colossal steel-wire suspension bridge connecting the boroughs of Manhattan and Brooklyn (described as the “Eighth Wonder of the World”) debuted in the spring of 1883, the future of New York changed forever. Known today as the Brooklyn Bridge, its two massive towers dominated the city skyline, and for years remained the tallest structure in the Western hemisphere. However, the real value lay in its practicality as originally envisioned by its designers, John and Washington Roebling. Historian David McCullough, in explaining the massive benefits of the bridge, writes, “Manufacturers would have closer ties to the markets … The mail would move faster … Most appealing of all for the Brooklyn people who went to New York to earn a living every day was the prospect of a safe, reliable alternative to the East River ferries.”

But beyond the obvious advantages of a structure that is crossed by 120,000 vehicles and 4,000 pedestrians nearly every single day is another benefit unknown to many: the Brooklyn Bridge also served as a massive wine cellar.

Reported earlier this year by National Public Radio, wine storage became an offshoot for the bridge’s designers due to several reasons. The first was economical; with a massive price tag of $15 million dollars (more than $300 million today) to build the bridge, the Roeblings needed to find other sources of revenue to allay the growing costs. Secondly, when construction began, two merchants on opposite sides of the East River, Rackey’s Wine Company and Luyties & Co. were suddenly uprooted. Therefore, what better way to bring them—as well as other businesses—back into the fold by carving out vaults underneath the ramps leading up to the giant anchorages? Most importantly, because the vault’s temperature barely changed throughout the course of the year, it became the perfect spot for storing wine.

Open for business seven years before the Brooklyn Bridge debuted on May 24, 1883, the cellars today are no longer used to house the finest Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. Sadly inaccessible to the general public for security reasons, what we know about them is sure to impress. On the Manhattan side, a statue of the Virgin Mary stands at the entrance way along with Old World frescoes and the phrase, “Who Loveth Not Wine, Women, and Song, He Remaineth a Fool His Whole Long Life.”

According to Nicole Jankowski of NPR, over time the walls were painted with designs of provincial Europe along with street names such as Avenue Les Deux Oefs and Avenue Des Chateaux Haut Brion. One author in a book published in 1894 writes, “Years of time and a small fortune in money have been spent in fitting up these vaults for their purpose, and they now constitute a magnificent wine-cellar, perhaps equal to the finest to be found in Europe.”

With the start of the Second World War, the cellars were closed down permanently, with only a few select government employees having access to a site rich in historical artifacts. But as more people become aware of this hidden history, perhaps New York can initiate a new form of wine tourism? After all, the suspension is killing us!

Sources:

Greenberg, Stanley. Invisible New York: The Hidden Infrastructure of the City. Baltimore: JHU Press, 1998.
Hymowitz, Kay S. The New Brooklyn: What It Takes to Bring a City Back. Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield, 2017.
McCullough, David. The Great Bridge: The Epic Story of the Building of the Brooklyn Bridge. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2007.
Morris, Charles. Makers of New York: An Historical Work, Giving Portraits and Sketches of the Most Eminent Citizens of New York. New York: L.R. Hamersly & Company, 1894.


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Ask Sid: Chablis Recommendations?

March 1st, 2017 by Joseph Temple
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Chablis burgundy wine top picks
By CocktailSteward (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: Thanks Sid for your knowledgeable wine and food blog as well as your most helpful Chablis tips you have given us in the past. I am going to be buying some bottles of best Chablis for cellaring and am hoping for your wise updated thoughts to help me in my purchases.

Answer: Appreciate your kind words. Yes I continue to be a really big Chablis fan and frequent consumer. Petit Chablis & Chablis AC are OK for fresh current use as their delightful simple balanced acidity works well with food (especially seafood). I really enjoy most of all the more expensive mineral complexity of the 7 Grand Crus with some bottle age (especially Les Clos but also Valmur). My favourite producers include Vincent Dauvissat, William Fevre, Christian Moreau and Francois Raveneau. Best value are usually the Premier Crus (like best the vineyards of Montee de Tonnerre & Vaulorent) but others can also excel including for example very old vines (planted in 1933) Vaillons in Cuvee Guy Moreau. During a visit this month to Paris I fortunately tried 6 vintages (2009-2014) of La Forest from Dauvissat that were all truly outstanding and all so age worthy. Still favour collecting the even years of 2010 (so fantastic because of their lower yields), 2012, and 2014. Prices will continue to rise for the easier riper styled 2015 vintage when released and mainly because of the decimated small crop resulting in 2016 plus increasing demand. Recommend you buy now 2014 Dauvissat La Forest – or other top 2014 Premier or Grand Cru Chablis you can find to put away!


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Hearty Salads: the lighter side of winter eating

February 24th, 2017 by Joseph Temple

Hearty Salads: the lighter side of winter eating

By Joseph Temple

After spending weeks of warming by the fireplace and eating heavy comfort food, it’s time to start thinking a little bit lighter.  With Spring Break around the corner, why not try some hearty salads for lunch or dinner?  Whether it’s Ft. Lauderdale or Cancun, get ready for bathing suit season with these scrumptious delights!


Crab Avocado salad
1. Crab/Avocado Salad

Cobb salad
2. Cobb Salad

Beef & Arugula with Pomegrante Dressing
3. Beef & Arugula with Pomegranate Dressing

Citrus Carpachio
4. Citrus Carpaccio

Shaved Brussel Sprouts & Warm Bacon Dressing
5. Shaved Brussels Sprouts & Warm Bacon Dressing

Quinoa & Butternut Squash Salad
6. Quinoa & Butternut Squash Salad

Chicken, Kale, Pine nuts & Parmesan Cheese
7. Chicken, Kale, Pine nuts & Parmesan Cheese

Mediterranean Inspired Fish, Tomato & Chickpeas
8. Mediterranean Inspired Fish, Tomato & Chickpeas

Kale, Potatoes & Poached Eggs
9. Kale, Potatoes & Poached Eggs

Kale, Pears & Blue Cheese
10. Kale, Pears & Blue Cheese


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Ask Sid: Sherry Service Temperatures?

February 22nd, 2017 by Joseph Temple
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Ask Sid: Sherry Service Temperatures?
By Michal Osmenda from Brussels, Belgium (Degustation of Spanish sherry)
[CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: I really love Spanish sherries, the drier ’fino’ style which are nearly impossible to purchase around here. My question is what’s the best temperature to serve them?

Answer: Yes the service temperature can really affect the aromas or bouquet, flavours and alcohol delivery of sherry. Your favourite dry & lighter Fino style (and those delicate salty Manzanillas) should be best served the coldest in the 7-9 C range. Try softer nutty Amontillados and other medium sherry in the 9-11 C range. Sweeter fuller flavoured Olorosos and cream sherry prefer around 12 C. Those special sweetest Pedro Ximenez (“PX”) should be less chilled in the 13-14 C range. Despite this specific answer that should suit most consumers I nonetheless advise you to serve it at the temperature that you like the best. Enjoy. Remember the glass is also important and don’t use those old style very small glasses. Much prefer a tulip shaped white wine glass. Also make sure your Fino is fresh and not more than 12-18 months old maximum after bottling. The fresher the better!


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