BOUCHARD PERE EMPHASIS BY NEW OWNER ARTEMIS IS ON DOMAINE BURGUNDY OF HIGHEST QUALITY

Groupe Artemis Domaines (Francois Pinault Family) has really grown since their original acquisition forty years ago of Chateau Latour in Pauillac to a most impressive portfolio of great wines from around the world. The emphasis now is definitely only on top domaine vineyards and a current focus is very much Burgundy. Frederic Engerer (long time Chateau Latour manager) Directeur General of Artemis Domaines has been spending a lot of time this year outside Bordeaux in Burgundy dealing with Clos de Tart, Domaine d’Eugenie, and Bouchard Pere & Fils. Your scribe attended an outstanding dinner held at Bouchard Pere in Beaune on May 17, 2024 hosted by Groupe Artemis with Frederic Engerer, talented Cellar Master Frederic Weber, and the new team. Some impressions:

Aperitif of their CUVEE 747 CHAMPAGNE JACQUESSON (better expresses their goal for 100% domaine vineyards than the sold off Henriot brand) is fresh and lively based on the 2019 vintage blend of 45% Chardonnay, 31 Pinot Noir & 24 Pinot Meunier disgorged after 4 years en tirage in December 2023 with low extra brut dosage of only 1.5 g/l perfectly matched with sushi, gougere, and excellent pigeon foie gras terrine.

Four whites from two excellent vintages in two flights followed:

2009 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET LA CABOTTE GRAND CRU MAGNUM

Seated next to Frederic Weber originally from Alsace who has been at Bouchard Pere for 21 years first working with Philippe Prost before succeeding him as as winemaker in 2014. He advised that the team picked the warmer rich 2009 vintage grapes earlier to seek a better fresh balance in the wines (though 2009 is a tad softer than 2010, incredible 2014, 2017, and underrated 2020) but no rush in magnum. Frederic feels strongly that Perrieres is always their best Meursault blended from 3 parcels combining outstanding fruit, balance and minerality. Leaner than the more substantial special cuvee La Cabotte carved out of Chevalier showing that full complex depth signature. Both paired beautifully with Bluefin Tuna (Thon Rouge) prepared two ways.

Second white flight from different terroirs and 19 years older:

1990 MONTRACHET GRAND CRU MAGNUM

This 1990 vintage was also a warm riper year both now showing more colour at 34 years of age but neither oxidized or maderized. Interesting pairing with the fresher elegant more mineral impressive C-C holding-its-own against tougher more expensive company of Montrachet which is fuller, richer, solid, rounder and smoother. Both mature with long finishes. What a treat to drink them with a delicious stuffed fresh morel mushroom, greem asparagus, “oeuf parfait” and bouillon of Tio-Pepe.

The seven reds spotlighted some of their choice domaine vineyards with four for a horizontal from the classic 2005 vintage and a three for a vertical of best Beaune:

These reds were fantastic heightened by the superb main course of low temperature cooked Supreme of Bresse Poularde, green asparagus, seasonal vegetables, and Madeira sauce. The great 2005s are starting to show some tertiary notes as they approach 20 years of age with good value red fruits Beaune most ready followed as expected by the elegant savoury Volnay (first plot planted in 1775). The Le Corton has more youthful depth and Cotes de Nuits Clos de Tart has brilliant structure and full young fruit concentration all in balance – most impressive future even in 750 ml. while three Cotes de Beaune are all in larger Mag format.

The last three reds were served blind. The 1967 looked old and very light colour with some sediment in the glass. All dinner wines were served in narrower but mouth-blown French delicate Sydonis glasses that worked quite well.

Guessed 1957 or 1953 Beaune-Greves (right on the terroir) because quite pale browning look even in Mag. Seemed older than a 1967 but when disclosed could see that a lesser vintage like 1967 is possible as the fruit has dried out and the acidity is prominent. Ready or slightly past it.

The 1962 had way more younger red colour left with a beautiful open very tertiary bouquet to be admired. Obviously a better vintage served after the first one. Guessed 1962 or 1959 for the smooth silky tasty lovely true flavours!

The 1947 was darkest of all three wines served blind but has complex aged development. Mature, concentrated, smooth, intense, powerful big palate. Would be right on for one of those top years from the forties – say 1949 or 1947. Might be a Cotes de Nuits with this fuller style but more likely a historic year for the vertical – of what we believe is their age worthy Beaune-Greves. This bottle shows a bit of Volatile Acidity coming through that adds support for one of those hotter years. Smart guess.

Wonderful to be assured of Bouchard Pere’s continued excellence and the bright future ahead under Groupe Artemis. Expecting Bouchard Pere and Frederic Weber to be focusing even more on Cotes de Beaune domaine properties and Domaine d’Eugenie (with Clos de Tart) for the Cotes de Nuits. Exciting.