On June 4, 2024 Alvin Nirenberg hosted with efficient backroom help from Kim Mead (both key IWFS Vancouver Branch wine aficionados & educators) an excellent tasting/dinner of 9 vintages of historic Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet. Shown is a detailed history overview of the property that they prepared for us. Your scribe has some 50 years history with this property back to the early seventies on several visits for wine tastings and picnics on Jade Lake with GM Lee Paschich (and wife Helen) – also owners of Shades in Calistoga producing bamboo wooden window coverings. Ironic that their renowned 1973 Chardonnay produced by famous recently deceased winemaker Mike Grgich winning the 1976 Judgment of Paris used mostly Sonoma grapes about 1/2 from Belle Terre Vineyards (Alexander Valley) & 1/3 Bacigalupi Vineyards (Russian River Valley) – two designated vineyards later pioneered in the decade used by winemaker Dick Arrowood at Chateau St. Jean. Chateau Montelena was mainly red grape focused even in the early days with the oldest Zin vines being planted in 1972. Cabernet Sauvignon soon became the key variety with the first vintage in 1978 under Jerry Luper and Bo Barrett. A most important factor in their success was that the vines were planted on St. George rootstock (not the UC Davis recommended AXR1) so when the latter planted by so many wineries became susceptible to phylloxera in California during the eighties and early nineties requiring replanting the Chateau Montelena older vines were thriving. They made outstanding wines even in the rainy weather conditions of 1983 year and an excellent 1986 one followed by star vintages in 1991, 1994, and 1997.
We started with the 2018 CHATEAU MONTELENA NAPA CHARDONNAY 13.9 abv that brought back fond memories of their wonderful 1988 from 30 years earlier. Admire how they are able to bring liveliness with subtlety to the lemony stone fruits from 10 months in French oak. No malolactic fermentation helps preserve that delightful acidity. This was followed by 9 vintages of the Estate Cab served oldest to youngest with the mystery wine being the 1977. A few brief impressions:
1992 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: No abv listed Marked by two hot August heat waves. Not big bodied but more elegant styling. Still vibrant with lovely menthol notes.
1993 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.5 Variable cooler weather made for mixed bag vintage. Looks and tastes the most mature of the first flight. Definitely drier but better matched with the delicious rabbit terrine course.
1995 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 14.1 Rainy early on supplied needed water reserves later during Summer heat spikes. Less intense than the 1994 tasted last year but fresher sweeter suppleness impresses. Bouquet opened in the glass with airing and warming showing riper menthol. Slight fav of first flight.
1996 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.5 Long more difficult flowering resulted in a smaller crop. Some extreme heat spikes in July & August. Variable ripeness. Younger full bodied with earthy notes but seems to combine both ripe and less ripe greener fruit. More time might help resolve it. Like the big solid fruit impressive statement of this wine. Does 1996 Left Bank Bordeaux have better ripe fruit consistency?
Four main impressions from the first flight:
-Well defined Cabernet Sauvignon varietal depth
-Similar styling with balance being the key
-Vintage differences but more subtle -Young still primary fruit and less tertiary development -Differences show by vintage but rather subtle
1977 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.4 Mystery wine seems older with more tertiary development. Intense flavours but shows the second drought year conditions. Drink up.
1997 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 14 Larger yields after smaller ones in 1995 & 1996 but crop thinning and canopy management helped some wineries. Here the dark superb cassis minty fruit is concentrated yet charming. Showing brilliantly.
2000 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.9 Selection critical in 2000 but a well done 97% Cab Sauv + 3% Cab Franc blend. Easy lighter accessible more delicate drinking currently. Singing with the tasty beef tenderloin & porcini demi glace.
2003 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.8 (believe it is higher) Big full rich black currants yet approachable. Underrated. Better than most Napa Cabs in 2003 with an encouraging future ahead of it.
2004 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 14.1 Smaller clusters earlier harvest giving a powerful classic style. Admirable concentration with balance and depth. Lush already but has a bright future. As Alvin put it so well” this is a much better crafted second flight from warmer years showing weight with balance & tension”.
A footnote for the remarkable tiny production (less than 1000 cases) of Berenice Lurton’s (family since 1971) 1986 CHATEAU CLIMENS of 100% Semillon concentrated botrytis with elegance.
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