The Vancouver Group of Eight held their annual Summer dinner with spouses at Blue Water Cafe on August 15, 2023. The feature was eight younger California chardonnays served in two flights that were in a range of styles, mostly charming. Three French classy ringers opened and finished a most delightful wine & food evening:
2008 TAITTINGER COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU from an outstanding vintage uses only the first gentle pressing with 95% stainless (5% oak) with 10+ years on the lees. It showed a most impressive structure with concentrated energetic fruit intensity but a less developed bouquet of that trademark complex “creme patissiere” it will develop with more bottle age. Lovely.
1983 CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC EN MAGNUM paired elegantly with the main course of exquisite quail ballotine in a potato bird’s nest. Weather conditions in August 1983 were not as favourable in the Pauillac vineyards as further south in Margaux but careful selection of 66/30/7 Cab Sauv/Merlot/Cab Franc blend at 42 hl/ha yields plus 40 years has resulted in an enticing herbal tea spicy tobacco cedar bouquet with lively but fleshy softening evolved flavours. On a delightful plateau now and is helped by the fresher fruit in magnum format but IMHO is not as pure, rich, and complex as the outstanding 1983 Chateau PIchon Lalande.
2007 CHATEAU COUTET BARSAC was the surprise of the night – as Sauternes often are! Underrated vintage has full weight (richness of 2001) with balancing acidity (like1988) plus an intriguing level of botrytis in the long finish. Perfect with the dessert having similar flavours of peach, passion fruit, lemon orange citrus, and honey. What a dreamy match!
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY FIRST FLIGHT:
- 2020 BERINGER PRIVATE RESERVE OAKVILLE
All the grapes Clone 4 are sourced from Gamble Ranch and current vintages are moving towards a fresher style. However this one is 100% barrel fermented in French oak with full malo in a rich toasty, stirred sur lie creamy style. Your scribe found it a bit hot on the finish and the microscopic abv on the front label states 14.9 (but seems higher). Nonetheless others liked it more and voted it fav of the first flight. Value. - 2019 FRANK FAMILY VINEYARD CARNEROS
Old historic stone winery from 1884 in Calistoga now owns over 450 acres of vineyards in the Napa Valley. Use here mainly their Lewis Vineyard plus neighbouring Carneros fruit from both Sonoma & Napa. French oak 100% BF & partial ML results in admirable smooth stylish well textured Chardonnay. - 2018 WALTER HANSEL CAHILL LANE VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
Underrated winery producing quality pinot noirs plus good value wines. This Cahill Lane was only 907 cases showing stylish Chardonnay fruit with a nice touch of charming elegance at 14 abv. - 2019 KISTLER LES NOISETIERS SONOMA COAST
Famous Chardonnay producer from old Wente clones on sandy Goldridge soils using Burgundian techniques. They have many different vineyard selections all unfined & unfiltered but this is an entry level one from Les Noisetiers surrounding their winery on the Sonoma Coast of 344 barrels at 14.3. Juicy fruit with some minerality.
Rather tasty.
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY SECOND FLIGHT
- 2020 SEA SMOKE STA. RITA HILLS SANTA BARBARA
Estate grown grapes hand picked chilled overnight and softly pressed followed by 24% new oak and 10 months battonage. Result is a clean pure elegant stylish balanced Chardonnay more expensive but delicious second flight popular choice winner. - 2018 FLOWERS SONOMA COAST
Founders Joan & Walt Flowers were early pioneers of the unique spirit and sense of place provided by the Sonoma Coast. Pure vibrant lower alcohol 13.5 with salty pineapple bright acidity notes are so elegant and no rush to drink up as should develop further interest. - 2016 RAMEY ROCHIOLI VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
Their second vintage from this special RRV vineyard has developed really rich creamy textures with some time in bottle. Much more weighty body than RRV from Walter Hansel showed. Longer 20 months time in 21% new French oak with powerful dense solid structure. Drinking beautifully now not showing the 14.5 abv. - 2015 THE OJAI VINEYARD PUERTA DEL MAR SANTA BARBARA
Planted 6 acres in 2007 in that cold vineyard “Door to the Sea” and this 2015 is the 5th release of 563 cases from Helen & Adam Tolmach. Visit their Tasting Room right in downtown Ojai which we hope survived the 5.1 earthquake there yesterday. Only 13.5 alcohol and 7% new French oak displays tension and energy in this refreshing Chardonnay. Bottle variation between the two bottles.
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