Looking back at the historic 1855 Classification of Bordeaux there were 61 winery properties listed in five groups (or growths). Eleven of them are in Saint-Julien with no First Growths and no Fifths but near the top are five Second Growths. Among those Seconds the three Leovilles were the highest rated followed by Gruaud-Larose (G-L) and then Ducru-Beaucaillou. Gruaud-Larose has been a particular favourite wine of your scribe over the years because of the great value plus availability by the owners Cordier (imported by Chateau & Estate Wine Company – sole agent for USA).
One of my first outstanding wine experiences was the glorious 1961 G-L which always showed so rich, powerful, and concentrated with that textbook terroir of Saint-Julien. It has aged well with Decanter reviewing it in April 2021 with a high score of 95 stating “really very subtle, vibrant, very much alive. Not yet at its peak.” The early sixties was a great period for this property with reliable 1962, 1964, and especially Michael Broadbent “long distance runner” vintage 1966 – still so balanced with cigar-box notes. Another fantastic period for this property was the early eighties under talented regisseur George Pauli starting with the undervalued 1981 followed by outstanding 1982, solid 1983, elegant 1985, and still young classic 1986. However, overall the G-L record has been somewhat spotty with Brett issues and higher yields compared to some other more consistent properties. G-L was purchased from Cordier in 1997 by Jacques Merlaut as part of the Taillan Group (Haut-Bages-Liberal, Chasse Spleen, Ferriere, and La Gurgue) with extensive replanting of more Cabernet Sauvignon and gradual improvements with lower grape yields in the wines (though twins especially 1996 and also 1995 are pretty good) through the aughts (surprisingly wonderful 2001 & great vintage 2005) and now the late teens are truly blossoming with an outstanding pure 2019 & excellent 2020.
Over the 2024 year end celebrations and the welcoming in of 2025 your scribe has revisited some of these G-L wines with recent memories and opening of bottles. The highlight was a magnum of 1981 G-L superbly paired at dinner with long roasted Alberta fresh lamb shanks deboned after cooking with Imam Bayildi. Amazed at how fresh, elegant, and complex this vintage currently is in Magnum format. Truly an underappreciated beauty. Looking back at that splendid early eighties decade for G-L:
1986 is powerfully rich with still old style tannins but is evolving nicely. Jewel that is aging well. Patience needed to wait for its best.
1985 seductive ready with lovely cloves tertiary development so exciting. Drink and enjoy.
1983 Full & spicy with more weight than 1985. On a drinkable plateau no rush. One of the top northern Medoc wines in this variable vintage that favoured the better weather of Margaux & Graves.
1982 Killer though can be bottle variable. Admire the ripe cassis/blackcurrant flavours with tobacco and smooth lush textures. A complex treasure with the 1961 to seek out as a legendary textbook Saint-Julien at its best.
1981 Cedary with some mint is an elegant refined charmer with exquisite balance. A point.
Check out this revived stellar chateau with cherished older bottles from the early 60s & early 80s and their great encouraging current releases. G-L is not usually included among the “Super Seconds” but it can be if you purchase wisely. Enjoy.
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