Archive for June, 2013

CORKAGE CHARGES – BYOB

June 24th, 2013

BYOB Corkage Fee
So many of us with wine cellars really appreciate a restaurant with a reasonable corkage charge allowing you to Bring Your Own Wine (BYOB). It also helps those ever increasing more casual places that no longer can afford the ever increasing cost of maintaining an inventory of older wines. The Aussies have been the best in encouraging BYOB.

In British Columbia with our restrictive government regulations this idea has been illegal until the recent law change last summer. After less than a year it is still unclear what the corkage policy might be for any given restaurant in Vancouver. However several places are supporting this new initiative and continuing to work to modernize BC’s antiquated liquor laws. The amount of corkage varies widely from $60 at Bearfoot Bistro in Whistler, $38 at all four of the outstanding restaurants forming The Top Table Group to the more common $20-$ 30 at the majority of spots. Always ask whether there is any special deal for a certain day of the week. For example La Cigale French Bistro has no corkage charge every Tuesday, Versace Pizzeria every Wednesday and even Four Seasons Vancouver offers half price on all their wines on the extensive wine list at their Yew Restaurant every Sunday.

What are some places that allow you to bring your own wine that you would recommend to us?

What do you think is a reasonable charge by a restaurant to allow you to bring in your own wine?

 

 

YOUR WINE SELECTION FOR BIRTHDAYS

June 21st, 2013

Enjoyed on Sunday December 30, 2012 a birthday celebration by a widowed neighbour held at her home. It was her 70th milestone and really was a lovely party starting at 2 pm and going on past 7 pm including family, relatives, friends and the like. There was a short break for singing Happy Birthday every hour or so but generally the format was socializing and cowering over a very large table with 70 different wines all numbered with stickers chronologically from 1 to 70 inclusive. What a brilliant idea! What a birthday party!
Started with the lower numbers sampling some boutique B.C. white wines of the unique 2011 Figaro (rousanne & marsanne), 2011 Fandango (albarino), and Black Hills vertical of Nota Bene (Bordeaux-style red from the Okanagan) and progressed on a world wine tour with stops including Bordeaux, Burgundy, Austria, Australia, Chile, Argentina, Loire, Chablis, Spain (lovely 2008 Torres Gran Coronas Reserva Cabernet) and ending with a couple of older bottles from her favourite region Chateauneuf-du-Pape (delicious 2001 Le Vieux Donjon & 2000 Domaine Grand Venour). Never done that before! Sure generously put a nice dent in her wine cellar!
Got me thinking of different memorable wine ways to celebrate birthdays (and other memorable anniversarys and occasions). I know many people have tried to drink the wine of their vintage birth year – but this becomes more difficult to follow particularly as you grow older. Also, fine if you were lucky enough to be born in outstanding years 1990, 1982, 1970, 1961, 1945 and others. I know for old off years I am still being asked by friends to consider supplying the odd bottle for their celebration so this tradition obviously continues to be a popular one for some.
Born in a terrible year myself I often hear the suggestion of others to consider using the year earlier when you were in fact conceived – though it could be the same year too or another terrible year in my case.
Thinking back we have often just chosen to try and open a super bottle or two or more depending on the numbers. Certainly Champagne has been the wine most consumed on birthdays in our family. The most memorable one for me with only my wife in a romantic tete-de-tete was a fantastic perfect bottle of complex 1961 Krug Collection Champagne.  However at a milestone birthday for my wife with out of town guests we served many bottles including 8 for a pre dinner blind tasting of the four vineyards (Blagny, Poruzot, Genevrieres, and Charmes) of Francois Jobard in Meursault from 1986 & 1985. Yummy and educational at the same time!

Has anyone else ever opened for a party the same number of wine bottles as their numerical birthday?
Please post your most memorable birthday celebration with wine and what would be your dream birthday wine of choice?

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NAPA RED BLENDS – VIADER VINEYARDS

June 21st, 2013

Delia Viader born in Argentina  founded Napa Valley Viader in 1986 on the steep rocky slopes of Howell Mountain at over 1200 feet elevation. Their first wine was produced in 1989 with cabernet sauvignon blended with cabernet franc. This was daring at the time and their new wine Dare is using 100% cabernet franc. Delia just hosted in Vancouver a family tasting including her son Alan Director of Operations, daughter Janet Sales & Marketing and daughter in law Mariela Viader Executive Chef  showing 12 vintages back to a surprising lively stylish 1990 (32% cab franc). My favs included a sweet chocolate 1993 with 40% cab franc (bottle of 94 a bit too earthy), riper full rich 97, (98 lighter more herbal), an outstanding 99, more modern style 04 and impressive classic 2009 for the cellar. They know cab sauv will ripen well but the canopy management is important to protect the cab franc in the hot summers to get that distinctive elegant floral lift for the terroir.

Interesting that recently Ray Signorello hosted during the Vancouver International Wine Festival tastings of his Estate cab as well as a vertical of his Padrone back to the original one in 97 (containing 16.5% merlot). Ray has now decided from 09 onwards to use no merlot in either his Signorello Estate or Padrone cabs. Will blend in cab franc if it is a good year for it and it helps the quality for longer aging.

I congratulated Delia for deciding so early on for her property that cab sauv and cab franc worked best in the blend. Asked Alan if he was thinking of now using merlot to add roundness and softer middle texture but he says he can get that already through his cab sauv because of the very steep vineyards. Viader remains in good family hands and it looks like another 20 years of traditional excellent quality!

What are your thoughts about the best grape varieties for red blends you have tried from Napa?

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WHERE DO YOU BUY YOUR WINE?

June 20th, 2013

Living in Canada we are dominated by liquor board monopolies. Always amazed on my travels to check out the better prices and the better accessibility of wines elsewhere.

In France the taxes are high but still lots of wines available and often you can find quality bargains at rock bottom prices. In Bordeaux wine is for sale everywhere including spiral staircase show piece L’Intendant across from the Grand Theatre. In Paris wine for sale at many outlets including Nicolas and the now over 10 year old Lavinia with their vast selection on Blvd. de la Madeleine. Lots of the usual traditional wine shops but I continue to be surprised by the increasing expansion of wine departments in other stores. The three “Grands Magasins” carry wine – Au Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, and Bon Marche (including 1852 Gruaud Larose for 27,000E a bottle displayed among the new release First Growths) – but also now a better selection at the popular grocery chains of Franprix, Carrefour, and Monoprix (really enjoyed their NV Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne for outstanding value of 22.50E). Another “electronics” shop with great wine prices but a limited inventory that I used both last year and this year is C Discount on the Left Bank in the 7th at 63 rue de Bac ( just down from another wine store Ryst Dupeyron at #79). Henry de Valbert NV Champagne from Mareuil-sur-Ay very drinkable and discounted to 12.64E a bottle, aged 2004 La Chablisienne 1er cru Cote de Lechet Chablis 14.94E and the enjoyable fruit of vintage 2009 Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Gramont 20.40E.

I raise this question of where do you buy most of your wine? What are some of the most important factors for you in making your choice: Proximity to home or office, very competitive pricing, knowledgeable service staff, wide wine choice availability, access to the display of product,  easy parking, good facilities and storage temperature ….?

We all know now that when buying older wine at auction the buyer beware – “caveat emptor” – principle certainly applies.

Where do you recommend we shop for wine when we are visiting your city?

 

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CHATEAU PICHON LALANDE

June 18th, 2013

I have been so fortunate to enjoy many verticals of the Pauillac property 2nd growth Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande while it was under the leadership of the now departed Madame May-Elaine de Lencquesaing – even out of Imperials! Since 1978 it has been very consistent with the merlot, cab franc and petit verdot all providing real elegance to go along with the main solid cabernet sauvignon variety. The wine always shows so well the vintage characteristics of the year and she really only missed the mark once in 1990 by leaving out the press wine. The 2006 acquisition by Champagne Louis Roederer is still the early days of evolution but there seems to be a decision made for more cab sauv in the Grand Vin with a bigger style being preferred.

Earlier this month treated to another vertical of Pichon Lalande back to 1961 – which showed the superb class of that vintage and much better than I had expected. Otherwise the wines showed pretty much as anticipated though the bottle of 1986 was earthy & slightly corked with those still backward big concentrated old style tannins – and the hard 1975 was starting to dry out. 85 had the usual lighter elegant charming herbal notes but this bottle was a bit too weedy. 78 & 79 were a lovely pair now on their best drinking plateau. The stars on the table were the 1982 & 1983! 1982 soft seductively sweet luscious and very delicious. The 1983 more classic and still needing more time to show at the highest level. It is one of the few stars of this 83 vintage because of May being on site in August and having the workers spray the vines in humid conditions to avoid the rot and mildew that showed up at some other properties.

Interesting to compare this tasting with their neighbour Chateau Pichon Baron which I wrote up on this blog February 18. Certainly the 70s and 80s were better decades for Pichon Lalande but the 1989 and 1990 Baron are both outstanding and they are making excellent wines currently.

Prior to this tasting we tried blind Glenelly’s flagship wine 2009 Lady May (90 CS, and 10 PV) from Stellenbosch in South Africa. Only 2160 cases of this low yield (31 hl/ha) fresh young dark crimson purple balanced quality wine were made.  Very cab sauv showing potential in a Bordeaux style with South African terroir! Already given 94 points by Robert Parker and 5 stars in the Platter Wine Guide. Congrats to May on her exciting new venture!

What is your favourite vintage of Pichon Lalande?

 

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